Big wave surfing legend Fred Van Dyke has passed away at 86.
Fred Van Dyke was born on the 2nd July 1929, in San Francisco, California. In Fresno State College, he played football. But a ruptured kidney sent him to Ocean Beach, where he met bodysurfer and swimming champion Cliff Kamaka.
After learning how to bodysurf (without wetsuits) and how to live life the Hawaiian way, Fred dove into surfing wearing wool shirts to beat cold. At 26, Van Dyke moved to Oahu and became a teacher at Punahou School.
And it was only a matter of time before he paddled out in big, and then huge surf … More