Learning to surf was the best thing I’ve ever done for my body and mind. Even though I am in love with the mountains and everything they represent, they can never keep me away from the ocean for good.
While I could never have all my passions wrapped up in this one sport or place, I am so grateful that one day five years ago I dug up some courage, bought a good wetsuit, grabbed a very-cute-but-not-good-to-learn-on surfboard, and started teaching myself how to surf. But when you catch the surfing bug, you’re hooked. It takes hold of you and there’s no other option than to give your … More