After a busy race season we decided to go to Reunion Island for 2 weeks. Beaches, swimming pools, tropical fruit, lazing in the sun. Holidays!
Because the the act of “getting there” is as much a part of surfing’s story as the actual waveriding.
There has always been something inherently charming about the expectations of surf.
More so than any other endeavor, anticipating and arriving at a surf destination has weaved itself into our culture. From a flight descending to a palm-lined isle in the middle of the blue ocean to the romantic images of a singlefin strapped to a van, the act of getting there is as much a part of surfing’s story as the actual waveriding. Even the most pasty-faced tourist family knows there’s something special about Kam Highway or PCH … More