Montsegur, a towering promontory in the foothills of the Pyrenees, comes into view at the exit of a sweeping turn in the road. The ruins at the very top are barely visible, but gradually take form as I get closer. From below, it is easy to see why this fortress kept an army of crusaders at bay: a solitary trail – narrow, steep and rocky – winds upward to the summit. A half hour after leaving my riding gear on the BMW 1200GS and out of breath from the climb, I reach the entrance of the castle, which now looms large against the sky.
Inside, a semi-circle of visitors is listening with rapt attention to a lone voice. The guide’s sonorous French and waving hands tell  … More