30
Jan
Surfing – Greg Long faces fear and beauty at the spot that nearly ended his life — Cortes Bank
In January of 2013, I sat down with a haunted young man to discuss an episode that had almost ended his life. The story of Greg Long’s near drowning at Cortes Bank a month earlier was fairly well told by that time, but Greg had yet to reveal much about how his drowning and journey back to the living had actually affected
him.
The conversation was difficult. One of the tougher interviews I’ve ever done, actually. I almost felt guilty asking Greg to talk about it. But he insisted that this was something he needed to discuss.
Greg revealed a shaken faith in big wave surfing that … More
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on Thursday, January 30th, 2014 at 9:17 pm and is filed under Surfing & SUP.
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