For all experiences in life, the first time is always the most raw. Everything is so new, so foreign. You become almost hypersensitive and notice every nuance that the trained eye overlooks. It’s a beautiful thing, really. And on Tuesday, for the first beautiful time, I surfed California’s great titan. A place after which Gerry Butler starred in a Hollywood movie. The place that has claimed the lives of some of the boldest individuals in the history of ocean. The one, the only, Maverick’s. And here’s what these two virgin eyes saw…
– Fog might be the cure for psychosis. A coat engulfed the whole of Half Moon Bay and Pillar Point for two hours after sunrise. As a result … More
This entry was posted
on Wednesday, January 22nd, 2014 at 7:28 am and is filed under Surfing & SUP.
You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.
Both comments and pings are currently closed.