Neal Kearney
The Froth Pit
Staring into the eye of this ferocious monster, I came to fully understand the reason for its mythic reputation. It towered above me, threatening me with unimaginable force. Its furious advance did little to intimidate me however, for this encounter was my idea.
For years I had studied this Hawaiian behemoth called the Banzai Pipeline, analyzing its characteristics, idolizing those who had successfully tamed this beast. Yet, when I found myself face to face with the monstrosity during a 2004 session, I felt almost at ease, as though watching myself act from the safety of a movie theater seat. The time came for me make my move, and as the beast lifted me up with its giant claws, I took my position and …Â Details
This entry was posted
on Monday, April 13th, 2009 at 11:39 am and is filed under Surfing & SUP.
You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.
Both comments and pings are currently closed.