Chas Smith explores dark undercurrents of surf culture
Many people think of pro surfing as all sun and fun, and Hawaii’s North Shore as the sport’s unspoiled Holy Land. Chas Smith found otherwise.
The journalist and part-time Cardiff resident’s wild ride of a book, “Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell,” is a penetrating and sometimes profane look behind the curtain at a culture that’s far more menacing and textured than anything the Beach Boys ever sang about.
It’s sun-tanned gods on big waves, but also payoffs, beatings, chokings and surf-gang intimidation … More
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