Scary wipeouts, never-ending wave hold-downs, steep drops and inevitable bail-outs. Big wave surfing can be painful and, sometimes, your life is in serious danger.
Big wave surfers have learned to prepare for the big occasions. Their daily job requires a perfect balance between physical health and mental preparation.
You are not born a big wave rider. You may become a … More
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on Thursday, October 10th, 2013 at 5:37 pm and is filed under Surfing & SUP.
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