Oregon’s north coast isn’t known as a surfing destination. But laid-back towns and big breaks make up for the nip in the air.
SQUINTING AGAINST a steady drizzle, I looked out over a gray and turbulent Pacific Ocean. I was standing on a rocky slope at the Cove, a beach in Seaside, Ore., surveying the waters in which I’d soon be paddling. A dozen surfers straddled their boards, waiting for the right wave. To my untrained eye, they had lots of options—but it seemed as though whatever they rode would push them into the smooth rocks like pieces of unmoored kelp.
To one side, the rocks gave way to a crescent-shaped expanse of sand, the spot where I’d attempt to surf for the first time in my life. That inlet seemed friendly, but … More
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