It was 4:30 a.m. and my alarm clock was going off. “Oh, why this early?†I thought as I slapped the snooze button for ten more minutes of dreamtime. Then I remembered and sat up, the north swell was here and running down the coast. I had set my alarm for a pre-dawn trip southward to the point where the mainland juts furthest out to the sea. It would take a little over two hours, just in time for the sun to creep over the horizon.
Everything was packed the night before: board in the back of the Yota, full suit on the front seat, gallon jug of agua in the back for the rinse. I stared at the floor where my still soaked booties were lying, thinking, “Do I take them? Why?  … More
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