When a big-wave surfer falls on a big-wave, he rarely penetrates the water immediately. First, like a water-skier, he’s going too fast so he bounces off the surface. Second, he’s wearing a slick and buoyant wetsuit, a life vest and maybe even, if he’s on the cutting edge of the sport, an integrated automatic buoyancy device that will inflate and drag him up from the depths he’ll eventually get pounded to.
So here’s what usually happens: He skips down the face of the wave on his head, back, stomach or whatever part of his body makes first contact with the water and ends up at the bottom of wave. And that’s where the real fun begins  … Pictures and more
This entry was posted
on Sunday, February 24th, 2013 at 9:00 pm and is filed under Boating, Powerboat, Surfing & SUP.
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