“I hate longboarders as much as anyone,†says pro longboarder Harrison Roach, “when they paddle out in big waves and start hogging all the sets. That’s what gave longboards a bad name in the first place.â€
It’s an interesting bias to examine: the underlying hostility of thruster-culture against log-riders. Of course they’re fun to ride in small waves, but don’t dare be seen dragging 9-feet of foam up the beach sober.
Roach grew up in the swell-starved, sand-point heaven of Noosa Heads, Australia. As a competitive grom, he was told to choose: short or long. “People told me you can’t  … More
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