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Surfing – Why We Surf

   Posted by: admin   in Surfing & SUP

Florida swells are notoriously fleeting; they can come and go as quickly as the tides. When they do happen to stick around, the wind will usually blow in from the east, chop them into stacks of whitewater, and pile close-outs all up and down the beach. There are no channels here, no easy paddleouts through mid-break, no points to wrap these waves into workable lines, no reefs to hollow them out. Most of our beach breaks can’t hold a swell much larger than ten feet, and when it’s smaller than four, it doesn’t even break during high tide.

Surfers here are constantly waiting for the wind to shift, which it does (more often than not) in the dead of night, creating perfect conditions for a few lonely, dark hours, only to…  Details

This entry was posted on Wednesday, April 1st, 2009 at 9:06 am and is filed under Surfing & SUP. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.

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