I’ve been chasing waves for over 30 years and have settled into seeking out fun and uncrowded line ups. I’m not a big wave charger or an aerial junkie. Just overhead is usually big enough for me, and hollow enough to get covered but not if it means risking serious injury. In other words, I’d consider myself middle of the road in terms of both surfing ability and desire.
And what I love about surfing, aside from the waves, is the vibe associated with it…the stoke, the shared mindset, and something that should probably be  … More
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on Sunday, July 8th, 2012 at 1:29 pm and is filed under Surfing & SUP.
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