Today the waiting period starts and the Pipeline Masters will most likely run. And it’s gonna be big. Ten-to fifteen-feet big (Hawaiian, of course). Maybe not by dawn, but by the afternoon we will run to shore and collect pieces of a smashed boards, groan and gasp when surfers fall many stories into shallow water, kick the sand when our heroes break down and raise our fists when they shoot from the innards of the roundest, thickest of waves.
And boy, could this be the One  … More
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on Thursday, December 8th, 2011 at 2:54 pm and is filed under Surfing & SUP.
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