I’m a huge fan of girls surfing. Now, I’m not tracking down Steph Gilmore for autographs or anything (hard to get near her after the bar-to-the-head incident), I just think their being in the ocean is terrific. They mellow out lineups and look pretty and are generally graceful (on longboards). It’s no different in big waves. They mix it up. Ride cool pink boards and are wetsuited and booted and make waves look crazy-big against their slight figures.
But besides Maya Gabeira, you probably don’t know many of them. Every time you mention a big-wave girl’s name you have to qualify it with “that big-wave chick.†That’s a shame. Because any woman who willingly immerses herself among the chest-pounding apes  … Pictures & More
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