Iâ€™m a huge fan of girls surfing. Now, Iâ€™m not tracking down Steph Gilmore for autographs or anything (hard to get near her after the bar-to-the-head incident), I just think their being in the ocean is terrific. They mellow out lineups and look pretty and are generally graceful (on longboards). Itâ€™s no different in big waves. They mix it up. Ride cool pink boards and are wetsuited and booted and make waves look crazy-big against their slight figures.
But besides Maya Gabeira, you probably donâ€™t know many of them. Every time you mention a big-wave girlâ€™s name you have to qualify it with â€œthat big-wave chick.â€ Thatâ€™s a shame. Because any woman who willingly immerses herself among the chest-pounding apesÂ Â …Â Pictures & More