Far from the hotels, mai tai bars and tourists at Waikiki in Honolulu, Greg Noll sat on his surfboard beyond the frothy waves and considered his fate.
“They were horrible, absolutely horrible,” he later said of the mountains of water that rose menacing in the darkened sky, whipped up by a legendary storm in 1969. “The whole situation gave me a sick feeling.”
He could die, he reasoned. Or he could spend the rest of his life regretting the missed opportunity … More
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