All the beaches are closed. Painting, shaping and our families were keeping us sane. Days go by… we wait. We wait and wait for just one beach to open up. We find a beach and its open! The line up is empty of tourist which is rare this day and age. Just us and it’s Like a dream. We spot a man pull up on his scooter. Wearing all black, not a beach goer at all. He was a scout taking photos of us. The next day it was closed. The orders come from the top. Orders coming from people we can’t argue with.
A couple of weeks go by and we hear rumours of a spot that had just re opened. The guards who patrolled the area weren’t paid the fee they were promised and decided to open it up for us. They too are surfers of that zone.
A swell pops up and we go to the spot. The spot is beautiful. A fierce and intimidating wave with strong current and backwash. Unpredictable, Shallow and very unforgiving at times. Many waves were make able and some waves tricking us into believing they were make able. Like a Venus fly trap, it would lure us inside and close us in. Most importantly, This was a legal wave, where nobody would whistle us out or flatten our tyres. A legal wave that gave us a taste of what we have been deprived of for the past 3 months.
Filmed / Edited : Alessio Saraifoger
Surfers : Jared Mell and Lee Wilson