“When you hear the crowd starts to roar you know something very big is heading your way!
When the waves are this big and you see the massive set coming towards you your Survival Instincts kick in. At this point you have to decide whether to start filming or swim for you life. While swimming into the lineup you never know what to expect.
You see a wave coming at you meanwhile you have no idea what the wave behind it looks like. Would you go?” – Brent Weldon