Historically, surfers haven’t exactly been upstanding citizens. Sure, there are some, but they’re boring. Upstanding citizens, unless they’re truly exceptional, rarely make for a good story. Think of it: OJ Simpson or Brett Simpson? Jack the Ripper or Jack Freestone? Jesse James or Jessi Miley-Dyer? Crime might not pay, but it sure makes a hell of a good story. Surfing has long had a stereotype–one that the WSL is trying hard to break free from–of slacker ne’er-do-wells, interested only (in the words of the character who almost single-handedly created the stereotype) in some tasty waves and a cool buzz.
But stereotypes are stereotypes for a reason. They are often … More
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on Sunday, July 9th, 2017 at 8:28 am and is filed under Misc., Surfing & SUP.
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