California Surf Museum’s new exhibition is dedicated to the surfer-soldiers that caught waves moments from the battlefield, and teaches how surfing can heal both physically and mentally
During and after the Vietnam War a group of soldiers found a way to break free from the atrocities of the frontline – through surfing and surf culture. Seventy-one-year-old Vietnam veteran Rick Thomas is known for being one of the founding fathers of paddle boarding, but what many don’t know is that he’s also a Post Traumatic Stress Disorder councillor, and a firm believer that surfing can treat trauma.
“I’ve been surfing for 65 years,” says Thomas, who was born and learned to surf in Waikiki, Honolulu. Surfing is … More
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