Surfing is like nothing else.
It’s sunburnt backs & bloodshot eyes.
It’s paddling back out for one more, 10 times.
Surfing is melting wax & burning sand.
It’s warm water, salt water, and a dry mouth.
It’s calling a mate into the best wave of the morning.
Surfing is tubes & turns & flying down the line.
It’s head-dips & chop-hops, hoots & high-fives.
It’s three fins and one fin, two fins and none.
Surfing is being local yet still searching.
It’s road-trips, boarding passes & rocking boats.
It’s a tropical reef & a track through the dunes.
Surfing is the first view of the ocean every morning.
Surfing is who we are…
This entry was posted
on Thursday, December 24th, 2015 at 7:57 pm and is filed under Surfing & SUP, Video - general.
You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed.
Both comments and pings are currently closed.