There’s no quick fix for post-traumatic stress disorder, but research has shown that surfing’s physicality and flow can give victims some relief and a way forward. The author hit the water with his close friend Brian, a former Navy SEAL whose service in Afghanistan beat up his body, tortured his mind, and pushed him into a zone where violence—against himself or others—seemed inevitable.
Four men in camouflage fatigues stop our car. “ID,” one says.
I pull out my wallet and hand him my license.
“What’re you doing on base?” the soldier asks.
“We’re going surfing,” I tell him, nodding at the boards stacked in the back of the car. He glances at my friend, in the passenger seat, who I’ll call … More
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