It has happened to us many times. When we get to the beach, we watch the swell lines on the horizon, and anxiety starts kicking in. Everything seems to stop. So, from here on out, just promise yourself you won’t take the first wave of the set. Ever.
Those who love surfing know it. The surf simply takes control of our brain. And it is always the same old game: the perfect wave lines are breaking smoothly as you put your wetsuit on and, by the time your waxing down your surfboard … More
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on Wednesday, May 27th, 2015 at 8:13 pm and is filed under Surfing & SUP.
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