Let’s be honest: Big waves are scary. They are big, for starters. They can hold you underwater for long periods of time and deprive you of valuable oxygen. They can make you panic and fear for your life. For some surfers, that’s a good thing. For most normal surfers, however, big waves provide another outlet for more stress in their lives. Surfing is supposed to provide a means of alleviating stress, not compound it, though. That’s why it’s handy to have a few foolproof excuses in your locker whenever the waves get big … More
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on Wednesday, March 18th, 2015 at 2:03 pm and is filed under Surfing & SUP.
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