Almost every surfer has been there. On the paddle out or in a wipeout, at least one wave has pushed each of us deep underwater and held us down too long, so long that a little panic crept in: “I need to breathe. I have to breathe.” And if the hold-down continued, “Am I going to drown?!”
That time underwater can feel like an eternity, but in fact, most hold-downs last only five seconds. In large surf, that may stretch to 12 seconds. Even a big-wave surfer subjected to a two-wave hold-down will be underwater only for about half a minute. Objectively, it’s not that long … More
Are you pregnant? Do you want to go surfing? Here’s some advice for women who want to surf through pregnancy.
Some women can’t resist the temptation to merge two special moments – their pregnancy, and their intimate moment with the ocean.
In other words – only a surfer knows the feeling. So, if you’re a self-confessed wave riding addict, can you stay out of the surf for nine months?
Surfing when pregnant is not forbidden. However … More
Sunburns are extremely dangerous. Know what to do when the skin is excessively exposed to the sun. Learn how to soothe the pain and treat a sunburn.
The sun is one of the best providers of vitamin D, but sometimes a sunburn occurs when we least expect, for example, in the first days of spring.
Dermatologists have been spreading the word for quite a while – avoid prolonged exposure to the sun between … More
Surfers have always smoked cannabis to enhance the wave riding experience and the connection with the ocean. But the flipside of relaxation might make you think twice before lighting a pre-surf marijuana joint.
In theory, you don’t need to smoke pot to experience the thrill of surfing at its purest form. If you need an extra metaphysical sensation, try closing eyes while trimming a wave towards the sun.
In practice, there’s nothing more straightforward … More