15
Sep
Surf Video – OUTERSPACE
A short surf film by George Trimm featuring Dane Gudauskas
Also starring
Patrick Gudauskas
Tanner Gudauskas
Archive for the ‘Surfing & SUP’ Category
There’s no quick fix for post-traumatic stress disorder, but research has shown that surfing’s physicality and flow can give victims some relief and a way forward. The author hit the water with his close friend Brian, a former Navy SEAL whose service in Afghanistan beat up his body, tortured his mind, and pushed him into a zone where violence—against himself or others—seemed inevitable.
Four men in camouflage fatigues stop our car. “ID,” one says.
I pull out my wallet and hand him my license.
“What’re you doing on base?” the soldier asks.
“We’re going surfing,” I tell him, nodding at the boards stacked in the back of the car. He glances at my friend, in the passenger seat, who I’ll call … More
15
Sep
Surf Video – “Maru Iti”
Um evento de WSL é muito mais do que o que você pode ver nas eliminatórias . Há exercícios , preparação física e mental, longa espera (lay day)… Este filme com Wiggolly Dantas, foi gravado nos treinos livres do Billabong Pro Tahiti. Mostrando também alguns dos passatempos dos habitantes de Teahupoo.
Big wave surfing legend Fred Van Dyke has passed away at 86.
Fred Van Dyke was born on the 2nd July 1929, in San Francisco, California. In Fresno State College, he played football. But a ruptured kidney sent him to Ocean Beach, where he met bodysurfer and swimming champion Cliff Kamaka.
After learning how to bodysurf (without wetsuits) and how to live life the Hawaiian way, Fred dove into surfing wearing wool shirts to beat cold. At 26, Van Dyke moved to Oahu and became a teacher at Punahou School.
And it was only a matter of time before he paddled out in big, and then huge surf … More