Shaun Tomson sits down to explain the risk and reward of surfing one of the world’s most famous waves known as, Pipeline. Located on Oahu’s North Shore, Pipeline serves as the proving grounds for most up and coming athletes.
Archive for the ‘Surfing & SUP’ Category
date: Dec.24 (Christmas Eve)
location: one and ONLY North Shore OAHU
surfing: Mason Ho
Surfing is like nothing else.
It’s sunburnt backs & bloodshot eyes.
It’s paddling back out for one more, 10 times.
Surfing is melting wax & burning sand.
It’s warm water, salt water, and a dry mouth.
It’s calling a mate into the best wave of the morning.
Surfing is tubes & turns & flying down the line.
It’s head-dips & chop-hops, hoots & high-fives.
It’s three fins and one fin, two fins and none.
Surfing is being local yet still searching.
It’s road-trips, boarding passes & rocking boats.
It’s a tropical reef & a track through the dunes.
Surfing is the first view of the ocean every morning.
Surfing is who we are…