California Surf Museum’s new exhibition is dedicated to the surfer-soldiers that caught waves moments from the battlefield, and teaches how surfing can heal both physically and mentally
During and after the Vietnam War a group of soldiers found a way to break free from the atrocities of the frontline – through surfing and surf culture. Seventy-one-year-old Vietnam veteran Rick Thomas is known for being one of the founding fathers of paddle boarding, but what many don’t know is that he’s also a Post Traumatic Stress Disorder councillor, and a firm believer that surfing can treat trauma.
“I’ve been surfing for 65 years,” says Thomas, who was born and learned to surf in Waikiki, Honolulu. Surfing is … More
Surf icon Jack O’Neill passed away on Friday at the ripe age of 94. Wetsuit pioneer and founder of the surf brand O’Neill, he was a true trailblazer.
While many associate the patch-wearing silhouette as the symbol of his brand O’Neill, the man himself was more than just a founder: he had a very heavy hand in the course of the surf industry … More
Filmer Damien Robertson spent the winter filming the North Shore’s very best and gnarliest days. Check out this compilation of the heaviest wipeouts from this season!
Follow Garrett McNamara and a group of the world’s best big wave surfers as they descend on Nazaré to catch the biggest swell of the year.