Archive for the ‘Surfing & SUP’ Category
TREASURE ISLAND
Amick Olson crumpled onto the 10-foot orange paddle board and pressed his hands to his the ears. His flower-print swimming trunks were soaked in saltwater. His blond hair was tousled. His face was scrunched into a ball of frustration.
Amick is 6 years old and autistic. He covers his ears when he’s overwhelmed, and at that moment, he was a bit overwhelmed. But not in a bad way  … More
I’ve been chasing waves for over 30 years and have settled into seeking out fun and uncrowded line ups. I’m not a big wave charger or an aerial junkie. Just overhead is usually big enough for me, and hollow enough to get covered but not if it means risking serious injury. In other words, I’d consider myself middle of the road in terms of both surfing ability and desire.
And what I love about surfing, aside from the waves, is the vibe associated with it…the stoke, the shared mindset, and something that should probably be  … More