Surfing is like nothing else.
It’s sunburnt backs & bloodshot eyes.
It’s paddling back out for one more, 10 times.
Surfing is melting wax & burning sand.
It’s warm water, salt water, and a dry mouth.
It’s calling a mate into the best wave of the morning.
Surfing is tubes & turns & flying down the line.
It’s head-dips & chop-hops, hoots & high-fives.
It’s three fins and one fin, two fins and none.
Surfing is being local yet still searching.
It’s road-trips, boarding passes & rocking boats.
It’s a tropical reef & a track through the dunes.
Surfing is the first view of the ocean every morning.
Surfing is who we are…
Archive for the ‘Surfing & SUP’ Category
A road trip with Matt Pagan and Dayton Silva on a search for waves in “the Golden City”. Though we just missed the big swell that hit San Francisco, we definitely tried to make the best of it. Like cliché tourists, we visited the Golden Gate Bridge, stayed at the first Motel ever built in San Francisco and spent most of our time enjoying the breathtaking views the city has to offer. Even though we didn’t score waves, it ended up being an awesome road trip with the boys.
Filmed and edited by Mike Pagan
Featuring surfers Matt Pagan and Dayton Silva
Local San Clemente surfer Jeff Lukasik ripping lowers and getting Native on some canvas.
Chas Smith explores dark undercurrents of surf culture
Many people think of pro surfing as all sun and fun, and Hawaii’s North Shore as the sport’s unspoiled Holy Land. Chas Smith found otherwise.
The journalist and part-time Cardiff resident’s wild ride of a book, “Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell,” is a penetrating and sometimes profane look behind the curtain at a culture that’s far more menacing and textured than anything the Beach Boys ever sang about.
It’s sun-tanned gods on big waves, but also payoffs, beatings, chokings and surf-gang intimidation … More