Francesca Baker went back to school recently – well, surf school, to be more precise. Here’s her journey from startled newbie to sort-of surfing pro…
A fortnight before:
It’s the Monday after the night before (travelling does this and days merge, making a Sunday social acceptable – although not for those I was with necessarily, who had to get up the next day), and I’m not really feeling the hectic day of sightseeing and organised trips that I had planned. The weather forecast for the rest of the week is more cloud than cornflower skies, and last night a friend pointed out that this would probably be my last chance to go to Bondi Beach. It’s something that every English tourist in Australia must do … More
The fishing town of Peniche has unveiled a new big wave surf spot. Meet Papoa, a perfect, giant right-hander located between Supertubos and Baleal.
The wave is breaking in front of a large cliff. Surfers take a look. Is it possible to hit it during Winter Storm Hercules? Maybe tomorrow. Surfers wait 24 hours.
Papoa is an islet located … More
In January of 2013, I sat down with a haunted young man to discuss an episode that had almost ended his life. The story of Greg Long’s near drowning at Cortes Bank a month earlier was fairly well told by that time, but Greg had yet to reveal much about how his drowning and journey back to the living had actually affected
him.
The conversation was difficult. One of the tougher interviews I’ve ever done, actually. I almost felt guilty asking Greg to talk about it. But he insisted that this was something he needed to discuss.
Greg revealed a shaken faith in big wave surfing that … More
Some of the waves I rode and shared while I was pregnant in 2013.