SANTA CRUZ, Calif. — The largest paddleout in Santa Cruz history happened on Sunday to honor the legendary Jack O’Neill at his favorite beach, Pleasure Point.
More than a thousand surfers paddled from the Hook, 38th, Pleasure Point, and even from as far away as Steamer Lane to form an enormous circle in the ocean.
A thick layer of marine fog created a fittingly-somber mood to remember the icon who passed away June 3, 2017 … More
Historically, surfers haven’t exactly been upstanding citizens. Sure, there are some, but they’re boring. Upstanding citizens, unless they’re truly exceptional, rarely make for a good story. Think of it: OJ Simpson or Brett Simpson? Jack the Ripper or Jack Freestone? Jesse James or Jessi Miley-Dyer? Crime might not pay, but it sure makes a hell of a good story. Surfing has long had a stereotype–one that the WSL is trying hard to break free from–of slacker ne’er-do-wells, interested only (in the words of the character who almost single-handedly created the stereotype) in some tasty waves and a cool buzz.
But stereotypes are stereotypes for a reason. They are often … More