Archive for the ‘Video – general’ Category
WARNING, there is bad language used in this video! In the past year i have been lucky enough to see 12 different countries, climb to the top of mountains and swim to the bottom of the sea. I’ve broken 5 bones, snapped a ligament and ruptured 2 more. Spending 9 out of 12 months in casts or splints gave me a lot of time to think about whats important to me. Something that stood out was the people i surround myself with. The people i am drawn to tend to be non-conformist, do-or-die, risk takers. These people also tend to be happier. Are the crashes a result of mis-placed confidence or do they facilitate our desire to be the best we can be? I am honoured to know such brave and barmy people and be able to call them my friends. May we never forget that life begins at the edge of our comfort zones.
Surfing is like nothing else.
It’s sunburnt backs & bloodshot eyes.
It’s paddling back out for one more, 10 times.
Surfing is melting wax & burning sand.
It’s warm water, salt water, and a dry mouth.
It’s calling a mate into the best wave of the morning.
Surfing is tubes & turns & flying down the line.
It’s head-dips & chop-hops, hoots & high-fives.
It’s three fins and one fin, two fins and none.
Surfing is being local yet still searching.
It’s road-trips, boarding passes & rocking boats.
It’s a tropical reef & a track through the dunes.
Surfing is the first view of the ocean every morning.
Surfing is who we are…