Scary wipeouts, never-ending wave hold-downs, steep drops and inevitable bail-outs. Big wave surfing can be painful and, sometimes, your life is in serious danger.
Big wave surfers have learned to prepare for the big occasions. Their daily job requires a perfect balance between physical health and mental preparation.
You are not born a big wave rider. You may become a big wave rider. There’s too much at stake when you’re traveling down the wave face at 50 mph (80 km/h) and, in your back, a massive wall of water chases you at full throttle.
Brock Little, Laird Hamilton, Shane Dorian, Garrett McNamara, Grant Twiggy Baker, Grant Washburn, Greg Long, Ian Walsh, Jay Moriarty, Jeff Clark, Mike Parsons, Peter Mel, Ross Clarke-Jones are some of the best big wave surfers of all time.
They share the commandments of the big wave surfer … More