Archive for the ‘Surfing & SUP’ Category
How to be an Old Surfer
Saturday. Half past noon. Locally popular San Diego reef. The future just looked me in the eye.
The future was there, sitting 20 feet farther out than right now. He wore a wetsuit that was half black and half torn. Beneath it was a gut that jutted out as if a Budweiser Clydesdale had a camel’s hump. The skin of his face looked like broiled ham marinated with gooey white sunscreen, and beneath that there was a coffee-breath scowl. The future sat so far out so that he could catch the next set or at least paddle for and miss the next set and splash water. In the rare instance that his paddling efforts were met with success, there was a certain apathy about the way the future rode waves. It was as if his rail was set on train tracks…
Well, maybe he wasn’t the future. But he might be my future.
I’ve come to the realization that …. More
You call that a wave? This is a wave… “Made In Australia” is back with another episode that points west. Forget about the wineries and artisans of Margaret River, if you want to meet the true wildmen of West Australian surfing you need to head north, way north, to where desert meets ocean, and life gets a little raw. There’s not much more than salt air and red dirt where Ry Craike and Kerby Brown hail from, but they’re more than fine with that.
If you like slabs heaving over sharks and sharp reefs, then the boys will like you too. They’re like their mates Jay Davies and Dino Adrian, who pay the north-west a visit in this clip to join in the fun. It’s Croc Dundee goes surfing, and the boys wouldn’t have it any other way.