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My dream of surfing bigger waves took hold on a blue winter day several years ago, when I stood on a dune at San Francisco’s Ocean Beach and watched 20-foot swells peel into magnificent long walls. I was 45 years old, and I’d been surfing OB for 15 years, never venturing into anything above 10 or 12 feet, but all of a sudden I began thinking… maybe.

Before I explain why, and how it all worked out, I should clarify that nothing I’m describing qualifies as what I’d consider true big-wave surfing. I’ve seen the latter in an awful lot of movies, and with my own eyes at Maverick’s, 20 miles south of Ocean Beach, and at a break on Maui called Jaws. By some accounts, big-wave surfing doesn’t begin until the face hits   …  More

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Surfing The Best Tubes, Gold Coast 2017 with, Kelly Slater, Parko, Ric Christie, Eli Hanneman, Tahlija Redgard, Toby Johnston, Hymie, Sheldon Simkus, Tane Bowden, Mckenzie Bowden, Josh Boyle, Damon Harvey, Toby Mossop, Kei Kobayashi, Lachlan Leckie & Co

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