Paul Dudley scores a double barrel wave at Ocean Beach in San Francisco
For surfers, finding the “sweet spot,” the most powerful part of the wave, is part of the thrill and the challenge.
Scripps Institution of Oceanography at the University of California postdoctoral researcher Nick Pizzo has found the exact location on the wave where a surfer gains the greatest speed to get the best ride.
The Hurley Surf Club is a pretty cool program where pro surfers can critique your surfing. This day Rob Machado was surfing his Go Fish board in San Diego, and I went to check it out.
Always an eerie feeling when you walk up to the waves and the first thing you see is a shark warning poster. But when the waves are this good would you get in?
Surfers include: Jordy Collins, Tyler Thornsley, Tommy Cantrell and Dawson Tyler