We all know Bethany Hamilton as the surfer girl from Kauai who survived a shark attack when she was just 13-years old. From magazines to books to major motion pictures, her story has been told on myriad platforms, but never before has she shared exactly how she is able to surf with just one arm.
From battling through the shorebreak to taking off late on overhead waves, it’s remarkable to watch her in action. This is how she does it.
OK, break out the lava lamp and beaded curtains. We’re about to get all bohemian here.
Although it’s different for everyone, in surfing, there is a common exhilaration in the ocean propelling you shoreward. Of course, there are those who get their excitement from escaping the jaws of a massive barrel, just inches above sharp teeth of coral, but if you’re new to surfing, there’s the elation of simply … More