Archive for the ‘Surfing & SUP’ Category
Laird Hamilton is perhaps the greatest big wave surfer of all time, a living legend who has tamed some of the world’s mightiest waves. Amongst the surf community, he is also one of the most controversial figures, an innovator who has revolutionized the sport often to the dismay of purists. This thrilling, up-close portrait traces Hamilton’s remarkable journey, from his rebellious childhood in Hawaii to his fearless first forays into surfing to his relentless pursuit of ever-bigger waves, a quest that ultimately led him to conquer what’s been called “the heaviest wave ever ridden.” Blending candid interviews with breathtaking action footage, Take Every Wave is visceral, white-knuckle look at a life lived on the edge.
Infamous for his disdain of neoprene, Clay Marzo was in a predicament. “Brah, I can trunk it,” he said to the collected crew as we stared at 6-8’ offshore wind groomed tubes on what would become the day of the year at an undisclosed Baja California beachbreak.
“Clay, it’s northern Baja in mid November and the water is like 59-degrees…you’re tripping!” was the reply as we zipped up our 4/3mm fullsuits with a hot, dry wind whipping up sand and debris. He gave in and began pulling on and squirming into a new wetsuit his brother Cheyne Magnusson got for him. Clay Marzo was in a fullsuit for the first…ever? Who knows.
Riders include: Mike Lucas, Tommy Cantrell, Morgan Just, Jordy Collins, Parker Cohn, Brad Domke, Alex Johnston, Tyler Thornsley, JJ Ayala, Mason Ho and Timmy Reyes