Relationships, work, health, relocations, aging, or even desire can keep you out of the surf, but there’s not one valid reason for one to give up on surfing.
“He who is tired of surfing is tired of life.” The original quote had London instead of surfing, but the adaptation fits in perfectly.
People go through cycles and moods throughout life. Sometimes, it just doesn’t feel … More
When the waves in Ireland are firing at historic levels, Jamie O’Brien enlists big wave surfer Ryan Hippwood to join in on a mission to catch the frosty froth. This being JOB, though, the boys get into some shenanigans before the swell.