Skyscrapers, traffic jams, and above-average waves
It’s an inescapable feeling. You’re in a crowded city, and yet, whilst roaming the streets in a sea of people, you feel completely alone – like Holden Caulfield in 1950s New York City.
Now, if only that solitary feeling translated to the water. But alas, much to the dismay of local surfers, the waves in heavily populated cities often do not reflect the collective feeling of big-city loneliness; instead, they’re some of the most crowded lineups on earth (i.e. Malibu, just north of Los Angeles, or Waikiki in Honolulu). And so goes the curse of the modern city-dweller – yearning for … More
In 1979, Mike Strident, built a revolutionary single fin – “The Outrider”. Strident has the world at his feet. He is the highest paid surfer in history, he’s killing it on the world tour, but then the Thruster happens.
The tri-fin surfboard makes Strident irrelevant overnight and his empire crumbles.
Thirty years later, Californian hot dogger, Tommy Tonata, discovers the original Outrider and tries to bring Strident back. And so begins a classic buddy story of shaping, redemption, head butts, acid trips and getting barrelled.
The Naval Medical Center San Diego (NMCSD) is among the institutions that are researching the possibility of using a new form of therapy to treat PTSD (Post Traumatic Stress Disorder), anxiety and stress.
The physical and psychological benefits of surfing are something many enthusiasts can attest to. Scientists have been working to establish the exact mechanism and value of this form of rehabilitation.
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