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On Wednesday 13 May 2009, seven time World Champion and renowned Hawaiian charger, Layne Beachley, rode what all witnesses are calling the best wave ever ridden by a female surfer in Australia.

Coastalwatch editor Ben Horvath said “It was by far the biggest and best day of surf in Sydney so far this year, a lot of Sydney surfers tagged it ‘Big Wednesday 2009.”

Ms Beachley told Mr Horvath, “It was the best wave I have ever caught. It was an incredible wave, definitely the biggest and best I have ever caught in Australia. I may have had some comparable tubes at Honolua Bay in Hawaii, but “Ours” is so much more intense than even Hawaii.”  …  Details

On a clear August night, Darryl Virostko got in his black Toyota Tundra and drove to Monterey’s Beacon House drug rehabilitation center. The big wave surfing icon from the Westside of Santa Cruz, known to surfers worldwide simply as “Flea,” made the trip in a daze.

When nurses admitted him, Virostko’s blood alcohol content registered at 0.28 on the breathalyzer. A BAC of 0.30 and above is usually enough to put a person in a coma, if not flat out kill him.

It had been a week since family members and a group of his closest friends, including childhood surfing heroes Richard Schmidt and Joey Thomas, held an intervention for Virostko at Santa Cruz High. Initially he was upset, but Virostko knew the partying had gotten to be too much. Not even the three-time Maverick’s Surf Contest champion could handle such an intense ride for this long.

“It got to a point where I needed it,” said Virostko, adding he’s now eight months sober…  Details

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Footage from the GoPro Surf Hero Camera on Oahu’s South Shore. Standup Board, 9’6 All Arounder from Paddle Surf Hawaii