Often people ask me, because I live in southern California, if I surf. My answer is: I am retired. Here’s the story on my surf career, which lasted all of thirty-two minutes:
The year was 2008. I was on tour in Sydney, Australia with my band. On the day in question, we had planned a surf lesson for our entire touring party with two professional instructors. Since the day it was planned-some two months prior-I had been daydreaming about it. More specifically, I had imagined myself ducking into six-foot tubes as all onlookers were hopelessly floored by my skills. I thought to myself, How hard can it be? I am a decent athlete. I am a good snowboarder. I should be able to pick up surfing pretty easily.   … More