It began in front of Rusty Long’s house, with a rented red double-decker bus at the curb and a green limo in the driveway. The limo wasn’t rented; Rusty and his roommates own it so they don’t have to search for taxis. Digression (you can expect a lot of that). It’s nine am after a night that didn’t end (for me at least — everyone else probably kept going) until about four. I am scrambled like the eggs I’m gonna eat once I finish this. I will douse them in Tabasco.Â
Control. Control. Rusty Long’s driveway. Pre-gaming for the Billabong XXL Big Wave Awards. There are so many big-wave surfers here. I will name some of them: Rusty, Greg, Ramon, Sion, Healey, Twiggy, Kohl Christensen, Gary Linden, Ryan Seelbach, Colin Dwyer, Travis Payne. Understand, though, that these guys are very popular, so there were many more people … Details & Pictures
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